St. Kitts & Nevis

St. Kitts and Nevis split neatly between St. Kitts' larger hotel scene and Nevis' intimate plantation inns. On St.

Kitts, the Park Hyatt St. Kitts on Banana Bay is the flagship luxury property, with beachfront rooms from around $500 a night in high season and a stunning infinity pool overlooking the Narrows to Nevis. The Marriott Resort at Frigate Bay is the island's largest hotel, with rates from $250 to $400 and a casino, golf course, and beach access on both the Caribbean and Atlantic sides. Budget travelers will find guesthouses and small hotels in Basseterre from $70 to $120 a night.

Nevis is where the real character lives - the island is famous for its plantation inns, converted 17th and 18th-century sugar estates reborn as boutique hotels. Montpelier Plantation and Beach, set on 60 acres in the hills, is the gold standard, with rates from $450 that include a private beach shuttle and one of the best restaurants on either island. Golden Rock Inn, redesigned by architect Edward Tufte, offers striking modernist pavilions amid tropical gardens from around $300. Nisbet Plantation Beach Club on the north shore is the only plantation inn directly on a beach, with cottage-style rooms from $350. The Hermitage, built around a 1680 wooden house claimed to be the oldest in the Caribbean, offers cozy cottages from $250. For budget stays on Nevis, guesthouses in Charlestown start around $80.

The national dish of St. Kitts and Nevis is goat water, a thick, slow-simmered stew of goat meat, breadfruit, green papaya, and dumplings seasoned with cloves and tomato paste - it tastes far better than it sounds and you will find it at local cook shops across both islands for a few dollars a plate. On St.

Kitts, the Strip at Frigate Bay is the social hub for eating and drinking. Mr. X's Shiggidy Shack does grilled lobster tails on Friday nights while a DJ plays dancehall and soca.

Spice Mill Restaurant at Cockleshell Bay serves upscale Caribbean cuisine - the jerk-rubbed mahi-mahi with mango chutney is excellent - with Nevis rising across the water. In Basseterre, El Fredo's on the waterfront is a local favorite for rotis, stewed oxtail, and fried snapper plates at under $10. Marshalls, above the Frigate Bay golf course, offers the most refined dining on St.

Kitts, with a changing menu of Caribbean-French fusion and an impressive wine list. On Nevis, Sunshine's Beach Bar on Pinney's Beach is an institution - the Killer Bee rum punch (honey, orange juice, and Brinley Gold mango rum) is dangerously smooth, and the grilled lobster lunch is a perfect beach day meal. For fine dining on Nevis, Montpelier Plantation's Mill Privee serves a multi-course tasting menu in a restored sugar mill for about $100 per person. The Yachtsman Grill at Hamilton Beach Villas does excellent seafood with harbor views. Charlestown's local eateries serve massive plates of stewed chicken, rice and peas, and plantain for $8 to $12.

The dry season from December through April offers the most reliable weather, with temperatures in the upper 70s to mid-80s Fahrenheit and minimal rainfall. This is high season, with hotel rates at their peak and the best conditions for hiking Mount Liamuiga, when the summit is more likely to be clear of clouds. St.

Kitts Music Festival in late June draws international acts and is worth planning around if you enjoy live music. The wet season runs May through November, with brief afternoon showers that rarely ruin a day and hotel rates dropping 30 to 40 percent. September and October carry the highest hurricane risk.

Culturally, the biggest event is Carnival, which runs from late November through January 2nd on St. Kitts, with the main parade and calypso competitions in the final week. Nevis has its own Culturama festival in late July and early August.

Taxis are the primary way to get around both islands. Rental cars available with a local driving permit ($25).

Driving is on the left. Water taxis and a ferry connect St. Kitts to Nevis in about 45 minutes.