Things to Do in Anegada

Anegada is the BVI's outlier in every sense - geologically, geographically, and temperamentally. While the rest of the chain is volcanic, mountainous, and increasingly developed, Anegada is flat coral limestone that barely rises above the sea, located 15 miles north of Virgin Gorda and accessible only by ferry or small plane. The island rewards visitors who appreciate emptiness and simplicity over activity and stimulation.

Start at Loblolly Bay on the north shore, a long stretch of blindingly white sand with water so clear you can see your shadow on the bottom in chest-deep water. The reef at Loblolly sits close to shore, making it arguably the best beach snorkeling in the entire BVI chain - brain coral heads, sea fans, and parrotfish are just a short swim out. Big Bamboo beach bar at the western end of Loblolly serves grilled lobster and cold drinks under a thatched roof, and the beach is usually empty enough that you can walk for twenty minutes without encountering another person. Cow Wreck Beach, farther west along the north shore, takes its name from the bones of cattle that washed ashore from a 19th-century shipwreck. The beach bar here has a similarly relaxed vibe and the snorkeling is equally good, with sea turtles a regular sighting.

The Anegada flamingo colony is one of the island's most unexpected attractions. After disappearing in the 1950s, Caribbean flamingos were reintroduced to the island's salt ponds, and the population has grown to several hundred birds. The best viewing spot is the salt pond behind The Settlement, where you can often see pink flamingos from the road without even leaving your car - the Flamingo Pond Lookout is the designated observation point. Birdwatchers will also spot roseate terns, herons, and ospreys around the ponds.

The Horseshoe Reef, the fourth largest barrier reef in the world at roughly 18 miles long, wraps around Anegada's south and east shores and has claimed more than 300 ships over the centuries. Wreck diving here is outstanding, though conditions can be challenging with currents and remote locations - arrange dives through operators in The Settlement. For a simpler historical encounter, the conch shell mounds near The Settlement are remnants of Arawak and Taino meals from centuries past, visible as large piles of bleached shells.

Rent a car or scooter and explore the island's unpaved roads, which wind through low scrub past free-roaming cows, wild donkeys, and the occasional iguana - the Anegada rock iguana is an endangered species found only here.