Things to Do in St. Martin (French side)

St. Martin is an island that punches absurdly above its weight. The French side alone packs 37 beaches, a world-class dining scene, nature reserves, and a cultural identity that blends Parisian sophistication with deep Caribbean roots into just 21 square miles. Start in Grand Case, a single-street fishing village on the northeast coast that has become the undisputed culinary capital of the Caribbean.

By day, it is a sleepy strip of colorful Creole cottages. By evening, the street transforms into an open-air restaurant row where French-trained chefs and local cooks serve everything from foie gras to ribs at the beachfront barbecue stands called lolos. Walk the strip, read the menus posted outside, and choose whatever catches your eye - the quality floor is remarkably high. For beaches, Orient Bay is the headline - a wide crescent of golden sand backed by restaurants, water sports operators, and a clothing-optional section at the southern end.

But the real finds are elsewhere. Friar's Bay, on the northwest coast, has a single beach bar (Friar's Bay Beach Cafe) under sea grape trees where you can eat lobster with your feet in the sand while watching pelicans dive. Happy Bay, accessible by a 10-minute trail from Friar's Bay, is a secluded arc of sand with no development and some of the clearest water on the island. Pinel Island, a five-minute water taxi ride from Cul-de-Sac, is a tiny islet with two beach restaurants and snorkeling off a rocky point where you can spot spotted eagle rays and juvenile reef sharks.

For a more active day, Loterie Farm is a former sugar plantation on the slopes of Pic Paradis that has been converted into a nature reserve with hiking trails through secondary forest, a zip-line course through the canopy, and a spring-fed pool bar called the Hidden Forest Cafe. The hike to the summit of Pic Paradis at 1,391 feet is the island's highest point and offers views of Anguilla, Saba, and St. Barths on a clear day. In Marigot, the Wednesday and Saturday morning market along the waterfront is the best place to buy spices, hot sauce, fresh tropical fruit, and handmade jewelry. Fort Louis, a short climb above the market, provides a sweeping view of Marigot Bay and the island of Anguilla. On the cultural calendar, Carnival in February and March is the French side's biggest celebration, with weeks of music, parades, and queen competitions culminating in the burning of Vaval, the carnival king effigy.